36 Hours in Portland, Ore.

36 Hours in Portland, Ore.
By FREDA MOON
Published: August 25, 2011


WITH its celebrated bike culture and obsession with all things independent and artisan, Portland is a small-scale metropolis with an outsize cultural footprint. Spread across the twin banks of the Willamette River, this provincial hub of the Pacific Northwest has more than its share of natural beauty and an earnest, outdoorsy reputation. But in recent years, the city has emerged as the capital of West Coast urban cool, earning it a television series, IFC’s “Portlandia,” devoted to satirizing its aesthetic and progressive social bent. Indeed, Portland — whose nicknames include Beervana and Soccer City, USA — is easy to poke fun at. It’s also hard to resist.

Friday

4 p.m.
1) JAPANESE, IF YOU PLEASE

Adorning the hillside above the Rose Gardens, the five-and-a-half-acre Japanese Garden (611 Southwest Kingston Avenue; 503-223-1321; japanesegarden.com; $9.50) is less crowded than its photogenic neighbor. Instead of being packed with people, this elegant corner of the 400-acre Washington Park has five distinct gardens — artfully designed “compositions” of sand, stone, water, flowers and foliage — with views of Mount Hood. On the third Saturday of each month April through October, a Japanese tea ceremony is presented at the Kashintei Tea House (1 and 2 p.m.).

6 p.m.
2) SMALL PLATES

Continue your Japan-themed afternoon with a happy hour sake or shochu at one of Portland’s proliferating izakayas, Japanese-style pubs that serve small plates to accompany drinks. Biwa (215 Southeast Ninth Avenue; 503-239-8830; biwarestaurant.com) is a low-light basement with booming music, concrete walls and a fanatical following. Two-year-old Miho (4057 North Interstate Avenue; 503-719-6152; mihopdx.com), in a remodeled Craftsman house on the residential north side — is less moody, with a patio and small plates priced in even-numbered increments ($2, $4, $6 and up). Opened in February, Mirakutei (536 East Burnside Street; 503-467-7501) is the newest dot on the izakaya map, serving delicate starters like Quilcene oysters with ginger sorbet ($5) and $9 three-sake flights.

8:30 p.m.
3) CLAMS AND CRABS

Tucked into a small storefront in a neighborhood of tidy lawns and German beer gardens, Cabezon (5200 Northeast Sacramento Street; 503-284-6617; cabezonrestaurant.com) has the unaffected feel of a small-town restaurant. A fish market by day, seafood bistro by night, the place has an easy sophistication; the only distraction from the food — a seasonal menu of fresh-off-the-boat dishes like Totten Inlet mussels with Borlotti beans, chorizo, fries and unctuous rouille ($13.50) and thin-brothed cioppino with Dungeness crab ($20.50) — are colorful glass sculptures with flowing tentacles that hang above the bar like psychedelic jellyfish.

11 p.m.
4) FUNERAL PARLOR PARTY

After dinner, head to the retro Sellwood-Westmoreland neighborhood. Window shop for tchotchkes at Stars Antiques Mall (7027 Southeast Milwaukie Avenue; 503-235-5990; starsantique.com) or slurp Jell-O shots at the Cosmo Lounge (6707 Southeast Milwaukie Avenue; 503-233-4220). For a less kitschy postdinner drink, settle into the attic at Corkscrew Wine Bar (1665 Southeast Bybee Boulevard; 503-239-9463). Then listen to live music at the Woods (6637 Southeast Milwaukie Avenue; 503-890-0408; thewoodsportland.com), a former funeral home in a Mission-style 1929 building with gaudy chandeliers and an Art Nouveau lounge. Opened in 2009, this 3,000-square-foot space draws musicians, D.J.’s and performers from across the country. On off-nights, there’s karaoke, stand-up comedy and movie screenings.

Saturday

9:30 a.m.
5) NORDIC BREAKFAST FEAST

Come early to the perpetually packed Scandinavian brunch spot Broder (2508 Southeast Clinton Street; 503-736-3333; broderpdx.com), which serves atypical offerings like lefsa (a thin potato crepe) stuffed with goat cheese ($9) and Pytt I Panna, which is Swedish hash with smoked trout ($11). Afterward, walk off your Bloody Mary at Mount Tabor Park (Southeast 60th and Salmon Streets; portlandonline.com), a forest-covered cinder cone with sports courts, open reservoirs and a statue of a former Oregonian newspaper editor by Gutzon Borglum, the sculptor of Mount Rushmore’s granite presidents.

Noon
6) ARTS AND CRAFTS

The 811 East Burnside Building houses an array of boutiques, like Redux (No. 110; 503-231-7336; reduxpdx.com), an analog Etsy with products from some 300 artists, including frames made from salvaged bike hardware; the gallery-cum-specialty shop Nationale (No. 112; 503-477-9786; thenewnationale.com); and Sword + Fern (No. 114; 503-683-3376; swordandfern.com), home to outsider art, handmade housewares and vintage oddities. Walk over the Burnside Bridge to the Pearl District and the Museum of Contemporary Craft (724 Northwest Davis Street; 503-223-2654; museumofcontemporarycraft.org; $3), which houses nearly 1,000 works in clay, fiber, glass, metal and wood.

2 p.m.
7) WORTH THE WAIT

Don’t be daunted by the line at the taqueria ¿Por Que No? (3524 North Mississippi Avenue; 503-467-4149; porquenotacos.com). You will be rewarded with an umbrella-shaded sidewalk table, colorful papel picado (perforated paper flags) strung between beams, fish tacos ($3.50) and horchata borracha (rum-spiked rice milk, $6).

4 p.m.
8) BREWS CRUISE

Start your pedicab brewery tour (Rose Pedals Pedicabs; 503-421-7433; rosepedals.com; $60 per hour, one or two people) with a sour beer tasting at Cascade Brewing Barrel House (939 Southeast Belmont Street; 503-265-8603; cascadebrewingbarrelhouse.com). Next, stop in at the tasting room at Upright Brewing (240 North Broadway, No. 2; 503-735-5337; uprightbrewing.com) before taking the North Williams “bike highway” to the brand new Hopworks Bikebar (3947 North Williams Avenue; 503-287-6258; hopworksbeer.com). Opened in June, the cycle-centered organic brew pub has 75 bike parking spaces, bike tools and energy-generating exercycles. For sober sightseeing, Rose Pedals also offers tours of the Willamette waterfront.

6:30 p.m.
9) PUT A BIRD ON IT

Join the sunset crowd at Skidmore Bluffs (also known as the Mocks Crest Property, 2206 North Skidmore Terrace), a grassy expanse of hillside above industrial rail yards on the banks of the Willamette River. On warm nights, clusters of 20- and 30-somethings spread picnic blankets and watch the sun slip beneath the West Hills. For dinner, sit at a communal table at Le Pigeon (738 East Burnside Street; 503-546-8796; lepigeon.com), flagship of the chef Gabriel Rucker. Mr. Rucker, who was just named Rising Star Chef of the Year by the James Beard Foundation, serves French-influenced nose-to-tail fare, like beef cheek bourguignon ($22) and veal sweetbreads with bread pudding ($26), from a hyperactive open kitchen. Reservations are a good idea. If you can’t get in, give Mr. Rucker’s newly opened Little Bird Bistro (219 Southwest Sixth Avenue; 503-688-5952; littlebirdbistro.com) a try.

9 p.m.
10) CURTAINS

For dessert, head up the street for a scoop of salted caramel ice cream at Lovely’s Fifty-Fifty (4039 North Mississippi Avenue, No. 101; 503-281-4060; lovelysfiftyfifty.com). Or skip dessert and skirt past the black curtain at an unassuming Old Town storefront and pull up a stool at Central (220 Southwest Ankeny Street; no phone), a new speakeasy with a moose head on the wall, a converted windmill ceiling fan and a bartender who builds cocktails with the care of a perfectionist furniture maker. For a quiet evening, catch a 3-D blockbuster or indie hit at the stylish, modern Living Room Theaters (341 Southwest 10th Avenue; 971-222-2010; pdx.livingroomtheaters.com), where you’ll find a full bar and cushy seats.

Sunday

10 a.m.
11) LOVABLE LUDDITES

Ben Meyer’s first restaurant, the beloved wood-fired bistro Ned Ludd, shares a name with the English weaver who inspired the anti-technology Luddite movement. With his gorgeous new north-side restaurant Grain & Gristle (1473 Northeast Prescott Street; 503-298-5007; grainandgristle.com), opened in December, Mr. Meyer has found another outlet for his culinary craftsmanship and woodsy aesthetic. At brunch, look for the homemade lox on a house-baked soft pretzel ($8) or the doughy beignets with bacon caramel sauce ($3) on the ever-changing specials board.

12 p.m.
12) RAILS TO TRAILS

Take Highway 26 to Banks, where you can rent a bike at Banks Bicycle Repair & Rental (14175 Northwest Sellers Road; 503-680-3269; from $8 an hour) and ride Portland’s rural answer to the High Line in New York — the Banks-Vernonia Bike Trail (oregonstateparks.org), a 20-mile route built on former train tracks. Completed in October 2010, the trail leads across two 80-foot-high trestles, past farmland, into forests, up hills and through the nearly 1,700-acre Stub Stewart State Park, where there’s a picnic shelter and dozens of trails.

IF YOU GO

The Crystal Hotel & Ballroom (303 Southwest 12th Avenue; 503-972-2670; mcmenamins.com; from $85) has 51 rooms — each inspired by a performance from the Crystal Ballroom’s 100-year history — a soaking pool and a hard-to-beat location.

The second Ace Hotel (1022 Southwest Stark Street; 503-228-2277; acehotel.com) to open in the country, Portland’s outpost of this trendy hotel chain has 79 rooms (from $95), recycled furniture, Malin+Goetz bath products and free bike rentals. Adjacent to the lobby is a Stumptown and the “European-style tavern” Clyde Common.

Copyright by The New York Times 2011.