36 Hours in Lisbon
By Joao Pina
copyright by The New York Times
Terreiro do Paço one of Lisbon’s main squares, near the Mude museum.
By SETH SHERWOOD
Published: January 27, 2011
http://travel.nytimes.com/2011/01/30/travel/30hours-lisbon.html?hpw
CHEAP. That’s the label usually slapped across the forehead of the Portuguese capital. Around the Continent, the waterside city is mostly seen as the charmingly faded seat of a centuries-gone trade empire where you can plunk down some coins to ride an old yellow cable car, visit Baroque churches and squares, fill up on cut-rate seafood meals, sip 2-euro glasses of Portuguese red and retire to your budget hotel. But Lisbon is getting fancier every month. By day, ambitious upstart museums and renovated industrial districts offer an infusion of contemporary art and design. By night, a fledgling wave of neo-Portuguese restaurants, stylish night spots and innovatively designed hotels provide happening places to play. The best part? The city remains a terrific bargain.
Friday
5 p.m.
1) INDUSTRIAL CHIC
Lisbon’s metamorphosis comes vividly to life at LX Factory (Rua Rodrigues de Faria, 103; 351-21-314-3399; lxfactory.com), a disused manufacturing complex housing young architecture firms, Internet start-ups, boutiques and cozy cafes. Housed in a hangarlike space that’s filled with enormous old printing machines, Ler (351-21-325-9992; lerdevagar.com) is packed from floor to soaring ceiling with new and used books (many in English) on everything from Madeira architecture to Jack the Ripper. The shelves of Organii (351-21-099-9763; organii.pt) display organic cosmetics by Myeko, a specialty Portuguese brand, and other international cult labels. For a snack, hit Landeau (351-91-727-8939; landeau.pt), which produces only one thing — devilishly good chocolate cake (2.80 euros per slice, or about $3.70, at $1.31 to the euro).
8 p.m.
2) MATERIALS MADE NEW
Raw plywood boards might seem more fitting to a construction site than a chic restaurant, but Restaurante 560 (Rua das Gáveas, 78; 351-21-346-8317; restaurante560.com) puts the material to stunning effect. Cut with small illuminated squares, the surfaces take on a pixelated feel. The kitchen also recasts simple substances in unexpected forms. The appetizer menu is filled with snacks for a foodie gentleman farmer, from honey-drizzled phyllo pastry filled with creamy farinheira (a black pork sausage) to thick toast slabs topped with fat mushroom chunks and gooey melted cheese from the Azores. For the wine-soaked main courses, muscatel forms the sauce for the duck confit, while a syrupy Madeira reduction tops the card’s most bombastic combination: grilled swordfish with sliced bananas. Dinner for two, without drinks, runs about 50 euros.
10 p.m.
3) ON THE WATERFRONT
For most of its life, the waterfront Cais do Sodré district was a mire of sailors, sirens and sleaze. These days, new night-life spots are popping up amid the seedy old dives. Proving that Lisbon offers more than just melancholy fado music, the cavernous new Gloria Live Music Club (Rua do Ferragial 36A; 351-91-359-6474; glorialivemusic.com; cover 7 euros) hosts funk, soul and pop bands on its blue-lighted stage. Another 2010 vintage, Sol e Pesca (Rua Nova do Carvalho 44; 351-21-346-7203), pays homage to the city’s maritime history with fishing tackle covering the walls, and hundreds of small tins of sardines, tuna, anchovies and other fish — all for sale — piled like Pop Art soup cans in lighted display cases. All pair well with a glass of Super Bock beer (1.50 euros).
Saturday
11 a.m.
4) STYLISH FANTASIES
Ever dreamed of strutting about in a Jean Paul Gaultier crocodile-skin gown while pouring chai from an Andrea Branzi silver teapot with a white birch-log handle? Sartorial and furniture fantasies come to life at Mude (Rua Augusta 24; 351-21-888-6117; mude.pt), a former bank converted into a fashion and design museum that opened in 2009. The underground vault and second-floor gallery host rotating shows, while the ground floor showcases a permanent collection of iconic and experimental clothing, housewares, furnishings, album covers — even a Vespa.
1:30 p.m.
5) A BOHEMIAN BRUNCH
Like bees to flowers, Lisbon’s cool kids and creative set have been buzzing in swarms to the fast-rising Principe Real neighborhood, which has become a haven of cafes and design shops. The afternoon hangout of choice is the airy Orpheu Caffé (Praça do Príncipe Real, 5A; 351-21-804-4499; orpheucaffe.com), where artist and musician types lounge about in vintage armchairs between visits to the well-stocked brunch bar. The spread of breads, toast, jam, cheese, ham, cereal, yogurt, fruit, cakes, tea and coffee — served with eggs and sausage — will set you back a starving-artist-friendly 15 euros.
3 p.m.
6) MADE IN LISBOA
Nothing works off a hearty brunch like vigorous window-browsing and credit-card swiping around the upstart boutiques of Principe Real and its environs. A former bakery, Kolovrat 79 (Rua Dom Pedro V 79; 351-21-387-4536; www.lidijakolovrat.org) now showcases delicate web-like silver necklaces (440 euros), scarves printed with tiny images of long-ago Portuguese royalty (155 euros) and more from the designer Lidija Kolovrat. An even more diverse selection awaits at Loja do Chiado (Rua da Misericórdia 102; 351-21-347-2293), which opened in 2010 to showcase work by three Portuguese indie brands: elegant leather footwear by Catarina Martins, richly embroidered Asian-inspired fashions from TMCollection and cowskin handbags and accessories by Muu.
6 p.m.
7) HIT THE TAGUS
Most Lisbon visitors neglect its greatest natural resource: the Tagus River. For sublime sunset views, head to the Cais do Sodré ferry terminal (351-808-20-30-50; soflusa.pt) and hop one of the regular boats across the river to Cacilhas (20 minutes; 3.20 euros round trip). After debarking, walk to the right for about 10 minutes along the thin waterside path to arrive at Atira-Te Ao Rio (Cais do Ginjal 69-70; 351-21-275-1380; atirateaorio.pt). The rustic whitewashed riverfront restaurant is the perfect spot to sip a glass of white port (3 euros) while watching the sun cast its final rays on the 25 de Abril bridge and the venerable hilly cityscape of Lisbon.
9 p.m.
8) TOP CHEF, LOW COST
For a celebrity chef meal at a common man’s prices, you can’t do better than Tasca da Esquina (Rua Domingos Sequeira 41C; 351-21-099-3939; tascadaesquina.pt), opened in 2009 by the Portuguese food guru Vitor Sobral. Featuring cheerful décor — red concrete floor, unadorned white walls, big windows — and friendly young servers, the restaurant fills mostly with middle-aged business folks and couples who tuck into a menu of small and medium-size plates intended for sharing. You’ll find everything from pig tails in coriander to sautéed quail legs (in a buttery and lemony garlic sauce) to ultra thin slices of warm black pork on toast. Abbot Priscos, a lush pudding made with a dash of port wine, provides a fine finale. A sampling of several dishes — enough for two people — cost 40 to 50 euros.
11 p.m.
9) THE GLASS PALACE
The name of this very new bar is French for “the cat,” but the elegant and softly glowing glass-box architecture of Le Chat (Jardim 9 de Abril; 351-91-779-7155) instead suggests a long rectangular aquarium in which boozefish swim on tides of Porto Flip cocktails (ruby port wine, brandy, egg yolk, nutmeg; 10 euros) and D.J.-spun house music. The space, with hillside views over the Tagus, is a striking contrast to the impressive stony Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga (www.mnarteantiga-ipmuseus.pt) next door.
Sunday
11 a.m.
10) AN ARTFUL EXCURSION
Cross the Surrealist with the grotesque, toss in some Freud and Jung, add huge dollops of folklore and mythology, and you begin to have a recipe for the wild oeuvre of Paula Rego, perhaps the most important living Portuguese artist. And now there’s a fittingly unusual structure to exhibit her works and those of her late husband, the British painter Victor Willing. Known as Casa das Histórias (Avenida da República 300, Cascais; 351-21-482-6970; casadashistorias.com) — “House of Stories” — the red fortress-like museum is situated in the upscale oceanside suburb of Cascais, a 45-minute train ride from the Cais do Sodré station (www.cp.pt; frequent trains; 3.60 euros round trip). Their canvases are by turns psychedelic, naughty and downright strange, but always thought-provoking. Better still, like much in Lisbon, museum admission is a fantastic deal: It’s free.
IF YOU GO
Opened in 2010, Inspira Santa Marta Hotel (Rua de Santa Marta, 48; 351-21-044-0900; inspirasantamartahotel.com) has 89 rooms of Scandinavian-cool design in four color themes (earth, fire, metal and tree). There’s also a spa, bar and nouveau Mediterranean restaurant. Doubles from 99 euros (about $132).
Another 2010 newcomer, the very blue LX Boutique Hotel (Rua do Alecrim, 12; 351-347-4394; lxboutiquehotel.pt) features wall-size photo murals with Lisbon themes in the 45 rooms. The hotel restaurant specializes in sushi. Low-season doubles from 80 euros.
Boutique hostels have also infiltrated Lisbon, notably the Living Lounge Hostel (Rua do Cruxifico, 116; 351-21-346-1078; livingloungehostel.com). Rooms — singles (from 30 euros), twins (from 60 euros) and dorm-style spaces (from 18 euros) — are decorated by local artists.
Friday, January 28, 2011
Jackie Lynn on Rick Garcia
Jackie Lynn on Rick Garcia
Is our advocacy organization really thinking this is a Gala Celebration , When we leave those out who made it possible ?
I came to Chicago to be a part of this community because of its embracement to all. We have shown other cities , counties and states what equality is all about. The foundation of this movement was started on a darkened street in Chicago . A neighborhood crushed and rotting into near ghetto status . A vision of creating a safe space for society’s cast away gay and lesbian community . A few bars became social gathering places , then a few stores , the neighbor hood started to build its self up from the inside out. "The Lesbians cleaned it up and the Gays made it fabulous "as I have been told ..An advocacy group was formed by four concerned dedicated people that had a vision of a future without prejudice . A vision that encompassed this small community but sought rights for the entire state . With this in mind the community grew , prospered and has become what it is today. Halsted street is no longer a poverty area with deteriorating structures . Its no longer a place where you have to worry about being safe . Our rights have been expanded statewide thanks to that small group of four’s vision. Recently we have seen one of those founding people from that advocacy group railroaded out of the organization. We saw a erosion of the foundation of progress and success take place . To many people that read this publication the his name might of been familiar , The name might of been read in the news about ruffling someone’s ego. Rick Garcia is that person. Rick was a founder of Equality Illinois . One of the group of four that gave unconditional dedication to a movement from the ghetto of discrimination to the acceptance of society today . As the dream became larger , so did the organization , This community expresses its gratitude every year in February at a function called the Gala the annual fund raising event for Equality Illinois . This year they celebrate 20 years of progress , 20 years of solid growth , 20 years of fears and 20 years of tears . This is to be a gathering of our community , all the people who care for our rights , all the people that have seen the hardships of being who they are and celebrate progress from the darkness of the past.
This year is a special year for Equality Illinois , not only a year marking but a year of great progress from many years of dedication , frustration , humiliation and procrastination. The goal of allowing Gay and Lesbian couples to become legal partners . It’s a few steps away from being the ultimate goal of legalized gay marriage But its a dressed down version . Civil Unions is the more palatable plate for society today . A monumental move by this state , creating a pathway for success for the other States to follow . This years Gala will celebrate this massive undertaking and success . However one person will be missing , one major person involved in twenty years of hard work , sacrifice , dedication will be left at home . That one person is one of the founders of EI, recently , untimely fired just days after Civil Unions cleared the hurdles of the Illinois house and Senate. His reward for 20 years " Your Fired " ... Sad to say a Gala is meant to be a celebration of hope and progress . A gala is meant to be the gathering of community , the sharing of heartfelt gratitude of vision of hope. Honoring those who gave and built our community as we see it today.
I ask you all when you partake in this celebration of progress and accomplishments this year to honor those people who are not there . To give thanks to Rick and the others who may not be a popular name in the eyes of new management . Give a few minutes of your time to express your sincere dislike for not honoring those who really made this dream become reality . We owe this to Rick Garcia for his lifetime of dedication to OUR COMMUNITY in THIS STATE . There is not any GLBT legislation that does not have Rick Garcia’s sweat , tears , and unconditional drive in it as well as some distinct stiletto foot prints . Let the Gala begin , but give credit where credit is due. Shame on Equality Illinois for not honoring the work of Rick Garcia , Shame on you for showing the community the dark side of inner politics and deception in our gemstone of advocacy in Chicago ......Rick Garcia , Thank you for being a foundation of hope for our community , Thank You for seeking legislation that is all inclusive in this state . Thank You for your unconditional support of the trans community in Chicago . For without your vision of hope and your desire for freedom from bondage of society we would still be living in those darkest times of discrimination and hatred here in Illinois ...
Jackie Lynn
Is our advocacy organization really thinking this is a Gala Celebration , When we leave those out who made it possible ?
I came to Chicago to be a part of this community because of its embracement to all. We have shown other cities , counties and states what equality is all about. The foundation of this movement was started on a darkened street in Chicago . A neighborhood crushed and rotting into near ghetto status . A vision of creating a safe space for society’s cast away gay and lesbian community . A few bars became social gathering places , then a few stores , the neighbor hood started to build its self up from the inside out. "The Lesbians cleaned it up and the Gays made it fabulous "as I have been told ..An advocacy group was formed by four concerned dedicated people that had a vision of a future without prejudice . A vision that encompassed this small community but sought rights for the entire state . With this in mind the community grew , prospered and has become what it is today. Halsted street is no longer a poverty area with deteriorating structures . Its no longer a place where you have to worry about being safe . Our rights have been expanded statewide thanks to that small group of four’s vision. Recently we have seen one of those founding people from that advocacy group railroaded out of the organization. We saw a erosion of the foundation of progress and success take place . To many people that read this publication the his name might of been familiar , The name might of been read in the news about ruffling someone’s ego. Rick Garcia is that person. Rick was a founder of Equality Illinois . One of the group of four that gave unconditional dedication to a movement from the ghetto of discrimination to the acceptance of society today . As the dream became larger , so did the organization , This community expresses its gratitude every year in February at a function called the Gala the annual fund raising event for Equality Illinois . This year they celebrate 20 years of progress , 20 years of solid growth , 20 years of fears and 20 years of tears . This is to be a gathering of our community , all the people who care for our rights , all the people that have seen the hardships of being who they are and celebrate progress from the darkness of the past.
This year is a special year for Equality Illinois , not only a year marking but a year of great progress from many years of dedication , frustration , humiliation and procrastination. The goal of allowing Gay and Lesbian couples to become legal partners . It’s a few steps away from being the ultimate goal of legalized gay marriage But its a dressed down version . Civil Unions is the more palatable plate for society today . A monumental move by this state , creating a pathway for success for the other States to follow . This years Gala will celebrate this massive undertaking and success . However one person will be missing , one major person involved in twenty years of hard work , sacrifice , dedication will be left at home . That one person is one of the founders of EI, recently , untimely fired just days after Civil Unions cleared the hurdles of the Illinois house and Senate. His reward for 20 years " Your Fired " ... Sad to say a Gala is meant to be a celebration of hope and progress . A gala is meant to be the gathering of community , the sharing of heartfelt gratitude of vision of hope. Honoring those who gave and built our community as we see it today.
I ask you all when you partake in this celebration of progress and accomplishments this year to honor those people who are not there . To give thanks to Rick and the others who may not be a popular name in the eyes of new management . Give a few minutes of your time to express your sincere dislike for not honoring those who really made this dream become reality . We owe this to Rick Garcia for his lifetime of dedication to OUR COMMUNITY in THIS STATE . There is not any GLBT legislation that does not have Rick Garcia’s sweat , tears , and unconditional drive in it as well as some distinct stiletto foot prints . Let the Gala begin , but give credit where credit is due. Shame on Equality Illinois for not honoring the work of Rick Garcia , Shame on you for showing the community the dark side of inner politics and deception in our gemstone of advocacy in Chicago ......Rick Garcia , Thank you for being a foundation of hope for our community , Thank You for seeking legislation that is all inclusive in this state . Thank You for your unconditional support of the trans community in Chicago . For without your vision of hope and your desire for freedom from bondage of society we would still be living in those darkest times of discrimination and hatred here in Illinois ...
Jackie Lynn
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