36 Hours in Krakow, Poland
By INGRID K. WILLIAMS
Published: September 29, 2011.
http://travel.nytimes.com/2011/10/02/travel/36-hours-in-krakow-poland.html?hpw
IN Krakow, Poland’s second city, comparisons are unavoidable. The Old Town’s stately main square, ringed by outdoor cafes and dominated by the twin spires of a magnificent church? Like Prague’s, but larger. The hilltop castle lording over a languorous river? Like Budapest’s, but older. The rollicking night-life scene thumping in grimy tenements? Like Berlin’s, but tamer. But this rejuvenated city now also packs some original surprises. Museums are sprouting in formerly dilapidated factories, and off-beat art galleries are showcasing works from the city’s creative class. Shiny new restaurants are claiming space among their bohemian brethren, infusing the once-staid local food scene with fresh, modern fare. All this means that Krakow may soon be the cool, post-Communist enclave with which Europe’s next crop of emerging cities is compared.
Friday
4 p.m.
1) WALK IN THE PARK
Krakow’s compact historic districts are eminently walkable, so start with a stroll through Planty Park, an attractive arboreal arcade that encircles the Old Town. Follow this leafy two-mile loop toward Wawel Hill, where the majestic royal castle and cathedral are perched above the Vistula River. Weave through the hilltop courtyard and then down the back side of the hill to the manicured promenade that hugs the river’s green banks. Then continue along the waterfront until you reach the year-old steel-arched Laetus Bernatek Footbridge, a pedestrian- and bike-friendly river crossing that links the Kazimierz and Podgorze districts.
6 p.m.
2) FREE YOUR MIND
Kunst Macht Frei — art sets you free. So claims a sculpture, modeled after the haunting entrance to nearby Auschwitz, welcoming visitors to the premier exhibition at the new Museum of Contemporary Art in Krakow, or MOCAK (Ulica Lipowa 4; 48-12-263-4001; mocak.com.pl), which opened in May in the industrial Podgorze district. The permanent collection inside the sleek glass-and-concrete galleries features similarly provocative pieces, like a full-scale reproduction of a Guantánamo Bay prison cell by the Polish artist Tomasz Bajer. For a lighter dose of culture, check out the temporary exhibition “Between Sculpture and Fashion,” which runs through Oct. 30.
8:30 p.m.
3) TASTE OF POLAND
At Restauracja Pod Baranem (Ulica Swietej Gertrudy 21; 48-12-429-4022; podbaranem.com), the hokey furnishings and moody oil paintings border on kitsch, but the kitchen cranks out reliably solid Polish classics. Start with a steaming bowl of shockingly purple beetroot soup or the hearty cream of mushroom soup served in a bread bowl. Then move on to pierogi ruskie — dumplings stuffed with cottage cheese — or sliced duck swimming in sweet apple cinnamon sauce. Cap off the meal with gooey gingerbread for dessert. Dinner for two, about 90 zloty, or $29 at 3 zloty to the dollar, without drinks.
11 p.m.
4) WODKA, 100 WAYS
The Old Town is peppered with bars and outdoor cafes, but to sample the local tipple of choice, head to the Wodka Cafe Bar (Ulica Mikolajska 5; 48-12-422-3214; wodkabar.pl). Forget sampling the entire vodka menu — there are around 100 types — and start with a chilled glass of hazelnut vodka (7 zloty) that you’ll want to sip and savor rather than shoot and scowl. Then settle in with a tatanka (11 zloty), an apple juice and vodka mixture, at one of the three tiny tables downstairs or in the cozy alcove above the bar.
Saturday
10 a.m.
5) ART CRAWL
Start the day with a tour of Polish art through the centuries. Begin at the Cloth Hall, the enormous market building in the middle of the main square, where, in September 2010, the National Museum reinstalled the Gallery of 19th-Century Polish Art upstairs (Rynek Glowny 3; 48-12-424-4603; muzeum.krakow.pl) inside four color-coded exhibition rooms. Next visit the Galeria Plakatu Krakow (Ulica Stolarska 8-10; 48-12-421-2640; cracowpostergallery.com), a shop stocked with thousands of the rare 20th-century graphic-art posters that emerged as a major art form in Poland after the World War II; keep an eye out for trippy pieces by Wieslaw Walkuski. Conclude the tour in the 21st century at the Bunkier Sztuki Contemporary Art Gallery (Plac Szczepanski 3a; 48-12-422-1052; bunkier.art.pl), a multistory space that hosts experimental, large-scale exhibitions, like a recent anti-capitalist video installation.
1:30 p.m.
6) COWS AND CAKES
The cow is sacred at Love Krove (Ulica Jozefa 8; 48-12-422-1506), a cool year-old burger joint with mismatched décor, a huge bovine-inspired street-art-style mural scrawled across a wall, and juicy all-beef patties piled high with unusual toppings. Try the Ozzy burger with beetroot, grilled pineapple, cheese and barbecue sauce (15 zloty), plus a bowl of crispy fried potato wedges (5 zloty). For dessert, pop into Cupcake Corner (Ulica Bracka 4; 48-12-341-4272; cupcakecorner.pl), a new bakery run by a cupcake-loving expat from Chicago. Flavors change daily, so cross your fingers that the moist red velvet cupcakes (6 zloty) are on the menu when you go.
4 p.m.
7) HISTORY LESSON
The buzziest attraction in town these days is also the most sobering. The former enamel factory of Oskar Schindler, which was portrayed in Steven Spielberg’s film “Schindler’s List,” opened in June 2010 as a haunting new branch of the Historical Museum of the City of Krakow (Ulica Lipowa 4; 48-12-257-1017; mhk.pl). The museum’s impressive permanent exhibition “Krakow Under Nazi Occupation 1939-1945” traces life (and death) in the city from the outbreak of World War II through the liquidation of the Jewish ghetto with exhibits that are both informative and unforgettably moving.
8 p.m.
8) THE PIEROGI EATERS
Please your palate with a pierogi “palette” — a sampler of dumplings stuffed with various fruit (17.50 zloty), meat (39.50 zloty) or vegetarian (36.90 zloty) fillings — at Pierozki u Vincenta (Ulica Bozego Ciala 12; 48-501-747-407; kazimierz.uvincenta.pl), a sunny pierogi restaurant with van Gogh-inspired décor and a “Starry Night” mural swirling across the ceiling. Or mix-and-match one of two dozen pierogi varieties on the menu — cottage cheese with walnuts (13.50 zloty) is a winner — with a free topping, like butter, onions or a generous dollop of sour cream.
10 p.m.
9) JEWISH QUARTER NIGHTS
These days, Krakow’s liveliest drinking dens are packed into the dingy streets of Kazimierz, the historical Jewish quarter. On warm nights, pay a visit to the convivial beer garden at Mleczarnia (Ulica Meiselsa 20; 48-12-421-8532; mle.pl), opposite the bohemian cafe’s brick-and-mortar location. Then saunter over to the bar Singer (Ulica Estery 20; 48-12-292-0622) near Plac Nowy, Kazimierz’s main square, where the ersatz tables lining the sidewalk are actually antiquated sewing machines. When the temperature dips, step indoors at Alchemia (Ulica Estery 5; 48-516-095-863; alchemia.com.pl), a shadowy, candlelit lair with glass beakers strung from the ceiling and a stuffed crocodile hovering above the bar.
Midnight
10) BLUE VAN SPECIAL
In Krakow, the most popular street food is the zapiekanka, a toasted open-faced baguette topped with mushrooms and cheese (or any number of optional add-ons). Conveniently, the rotunda in the middle of Plac Nowy is packed with zapiekanka vendors, but the best of the bunch is Endzior (Plac Nowy; 48-12-429-3754; endzior.eu). If you’re willing to walk for your midnight snack, instead seek out the blue van parked just past the elevated railroad tracks beside Hala Targowa (Market Hall) at the intersection of Blich and Grzegorzecka. Until 3 a.m., a white-jacketed duo quietly cooks footlong kielbasa over an open flame in a makeshift wood-burning grill beside the van. Served with a crusty bun and a pool of mustard, these sausages (8 zloty) have earned a cult following, so be prepared to wait in line.
Sunday
11 a.m.
11) SALT ROCK CITY
On nearly every street corner in the Old Town, there’s a blue-and-white cart selling obwarzanek (Polish bagels). Grab a couple and hop on the train to Wieliczka, a quiet town about eight miles away that is home to the Wieliczka Salt Mine (Ulica Danilowicza 10, Wieliczka; 48-12-278-7375; kopalnia.pl), one of the very first Unesco World Heritage sites. The two-and-a-half-hour guided tour of the site begins by descending 210 feet into a 17th-century mine shaft and then snakes through a sprawling maze of underground chambers, including one fantastically grand chapel complete with an altar, chandeliers, sculptures and bas-relief works made from salt. Don’t believe it’s all salt? Lick it to see for yourself.
IF YOU GO
The sleek 34-room Hotel Unicus (Ulica Florianska 35/Swietego Marka 20; 48-12-433-7111; hotelunicus.pl) is in the heart of the Old Town and the area’s boisterous late-night hot spots. The spacious, modern rooms are tranquil, however, and outfitted with plush beds and black-tiled bathrooms. Doubles from 480 zloty (about $155).
The elegant Hotel Copernicus (Ulica Kanonicza 16; 48-12-424-3400; copernicus.hotel.com.pl) is a luxe Relais & Châteaux property on a cobblestone side street near Wawel Hill. The 29 rooms are tucked around a glass-roofed patio, and have period furnishings and rustic wood-beam ceilings. Doubles from 900 zloty.
Copyright by The New York Times, 2011
Friday, September 30, 2011
Friday, September 23, 2011
A Gold Rush Wanes as Hedge Funds Sell
By: Julie Creswell
Published: Friday, 23 Sep 2011 | 10:03 AM ET
http://www.cnbc.com/id/44638898
For the better part of the last two years, some of the world’s biggest hedge funds have been piling into gold, betting the precious metal would provide an effective hedge against inflation or be a safer place to park cash as equity markets around the world stumbled.
But to the surprise of many investors, when equity markets across the globe tumbled once again on Thursday, gold moved sharply lower as well.
Gold futures for September delivery fell $66.30, or 3.7 percent, to $1,739.20 an ounce in New York. It was quite a turnabout for the metal, which has been soaring in recent months amid the turbulent stock markets.
Hedge funds [cnbc explains] , which have been ratcheting down their positions in gold futures since early August, were quickly named as the culprits in the latest sell-off.
Some traders said that hedge funds were beginning to unwind, or close out, what has been a very popular and profitable trade for the last 18 months as they bet the dollar would fall and that gold would rise. In the last month alone, the euro has fallen nearly 4 percent against the dollar amid worries about the European debt crisis.
The sell-off in gold was part of a broader move in the markets that had investors shifting away from perceived riskier assets, like commodities, and into the dollar in reaction to the Federal Reserve’s announcement on Wednesday of its new stimulus program.
In addition, the Fed [cnbc explains] said that there were “significant downside risks” to the United States economy, which sent several commodities, including crude oil and copper, tumbling on Thursday on fears of a global slowdown in demand.
Other market participants said hedge funds were selling their positions in gold to raise cash to meet increased capital demands for their borrowings from Wall Street banks as the assets they have put up as collateral, like other commodities or stocks, have declined sharply in value.
“On the one hand you have a lot of strength in the U.S. dollar, historically gold and the dollar do trade inversely,” said Ryan Detrick, senior technical strategist at Schaeffer’s Investment Research. “The hedge funds are long gold and they need to raise cash and it looks like they are definitely selling some gold.”
Others say some hedge funds may be selling to meet redemption requests from investors who have been spooked by the recent market volatility and fear a repeat of the problems of late 2008.
“A lot of investors are waking up to the realization that something is off. We’ve seen Goldman Sachs close its flagship fund, legendary hedge funds are down sharply, and I suspect we’re going to see significant withdrawals from some hedge funds this year,” said Michael A. Gayed, the chief investment strategist of the investment advisory firm Pension Partners.
“The tendency for individual hedge funds or anybody is to sell winners before they sell losers. What’s been one of the few winners this year? It’s been gold,” Mr. Gayed added.
Still, some are not yet ready to call the end of the gold rush. Even with the pullback, gold remains one of the most profitable investments this year with a gain of 22 percent.
Some strategists have even predicted that gold will reach a record of above $2,300, which it hit during the early 1980s when adjusted for inflation and translated into current dollars. Likewise, the world’s largest exchange-traded gold fund, the SPDR Gold Shares [GLD 161.4428 -7.6072 (-4.5%) ], fell 2.6 percent on Thursday, but remains up 22 percent for the year.
Gold, whether through futures contracts or via exchange-traded funds, has been a popular investment among some of the world’s largest hedge funds. One of the best known “gold bugs” is John A. Paulson, whose firm, Paulson & Company, is the biggest shareholder in the SPDR Gold Shares ETF. But many other hedge funds have embraced the metal as well.
After peaking in early August, hedge funds have been reducing their exposure in the gold futures market, according to Mary Ann Bartels, the head of United States technical analysis for Bank of America Merrill Lynch.
“A lot of speculators were very long in July,” Ms. Bartels said. “But they’ve been taking it down ever since.”
Copyright by The New York Times, 2011
By: Julie Creswell
Published: Friday, 23 Sep 2011 | 10:03 AM ET
http://www.cnbc.com/id/44638898
For the better part of the last two years, some of the world’s biggest hedge funds have been piling into gold, betting the precious metal would provide an effective hedge against inflation or be a safer place to park cash as equity markets around the world stumbled.
But to the surprise of many investors, when equity markets across the globe tumbled once again on Thursday, gold moved sharply lower as well.
Gold futures for September delivery fell $66.30, or 3.7 percent, to $1,739.20 an ounce in New York. It was quite a turnabout for the metal, which has been soaring in recent months amid the turbulent stock markets.
Hedge funds [cnbc explains] , which have been ratcheting down their positions in gold futures since early August, were quickly named as the culprits in the latest sell-off.
Some traders said that hedge funds were beginning to unwind, or close out, what has been a very popular and profitable trade for the last 18 months as they bet the dollar would fall and that gold would rise. In the last month alone, the euro has fallen nearly 4 percent against the dollar amid worries about the European debt crisis.
The sell-off in gold was part of a broader move in the markets that had investors shifting away from perceived riskier assets, like commodities, and into the dollar in reaction to the Federal Reserve’s announcement on Wednesday of its new stimulus program.
In addition, the Fed [cnbc explains] said that there were “significant downside risks” to the United States economy, which sent several commodities, including crude oil and copper, tumbling on Thursday on fears of a global slowdown in demand.
Other market participants said hedge funds were selling their positions in gold to raise cash to meet increased capital demands for their borrowings from Wall Street banks as the assets they have put up as collateral, like other commodities or stocks, have declined sharply in value.
“On the one hand you have a lot of strength in the U.S. dollar, historically gold and the dollar do trade inversely,” said Ryan Detrick, senior technical strategist at Schaeffer’s Investment Research. “The hedge funds are long gold and they need to raise cash and it looks like they are definitely selling some gold.”
Others say some hedge funds may be selling to meet redemption requests from investors who have been spooked by the recent market volatility and fear a repeat of the problems of late 2008.
“A lot of investors are waking up to the realization that something is off. We’ve seen Goldman Sachs close its flagship fund, legendary hedge funds are down sharply, and I suspect we’re going to see significant withdrawals from some hedge funds this year,” said Michael A. Gayed, the chief investment strategist of the investment advisory firm Pension Partners.
“The tendency for individual hedge funds or anybody is to sell winners before they sell losers. What’s been one of the few winners this year? It’s been gold,” Mr. Gayed added.
Still, some are not yet ready to call the end of the gold rush. Even with the pullback, gold remains one of the most profitable investments this year with a gain of 22 percent.
Some strategists have even predicted that gold will reach a record of above $2,300, which it hit during the early 1980s when adjusted for inflation and translated into current dollars. Likewise, the world’s largest exchange-traded gold fund, the SPDR Gold Shares [GLD 161.4428 -7.6072 (-4.5%) ], fell 2.6 percent on Thursday, but remains up 22 percent for the year.
Gold, whether through futures contracts or via exchange-traded funds, has been a popular investment among some of the world’s largest hedge funds. One of the best known “gold bugs” is John A. Paulson, whose firm, Paulson & Company, is the biggest shareholder in the SPDR Gold Shares ETF. But many other hedge funds have embraced the metal as well.
After peaking in early August, hedge funds have been reducing their exposure in the gold futures market, according to Mary Ann Bartels, the head of United States technical analysis for Bank of America Merrill Lynch.
“A lot of speculators were very long in July,” Ms. Bartels said. “But they’ve been taking it down ever since.”
Copyright by The New York Times, 2011
Friday, September 16, 2011
36 Hours in Quito, Ecuador
36 Hours in Quito, Ecuador
By MICHELLE HIGGINS
Copyright by The New York Times, 2011
Published: September 15, 2011
NESTLED amid snowcapped Andean peaks, Ecuador’s capital has long been overlooked by travelers on their way to the country’s most famous destination, the Galápagos Islands. But visitors who bypass this lively historic city of some two million people are missing out. At 9,350 feet above sea level, on the eastern slopes of the Pichincha Volcano, Quito offers breathtaking vistas around nearly every corner. Its historic center, a Unesco World Heritage site, is one of the largest in South America, with 40 colonial churches and chapels, 16 convents and monasteries and picturesque plazas. In recent years, museums have been opened; mansions restored; hotels, restaurants and cafes opened and safety improved. And this year, in recognition of Quito’s rich mix of architectural heritage and cultural traditions, the International Cultural Capitals Bureau chose the city as its 2011 American Capital of Culture.
Friday
5:30 p.m.
1) SUNSET OVER THE CITY
Parque Itchimbía (Calles José María Aguirre N4-108 and Concepción; 593-2-322-8470) offers panoramic views, including Quito’s historic center and, in the distance, the winged Virgin of Quito statue. Check out the Art Nouveau Itchimbía Cultural Center (Itchimbía Centro Cultural, 593-2-258-4362; centrocultural-quito.com). The glass and steel structure imported from Hamburg in 1889 was on the other side of the city until it was moved to Itchimbía hill in 2004. Then, venture below the observation deck, where you’ll find Pim’s, an Ecuadorean chain. Order a cocktail and find a seat near one of the heat lamps on the outdoor deck to watch the lights come on in the city below.
7:30 p.m.
2) WITH A LATIN TWIST
Theatrum Restaurant & Wine Bar (Teatro Nacional Sucre, Calle Manabi between Guayaquil and Flores; 593-2-257-1011; theatrum.com.ec), on the second floor of the National Theater, serves Mediterranean cuisine with a Latin twist in a high-vaulted room draped in red velvet curtains. The five-course tasting menu ($38 plus tax; the official currency in Ecuador is the United States dollar) includes specials like grilled octopus with olives and fava beans, crab ravioli and rabbit risotto, and a refreshing sorbet as a palate cleanser. The restaurant will also arrange free transportation to and from your hotel.
10 p.m.
3) PARTY PLAZA
If the food and altitude haven’t sapped your energy, head to Plaza Foch at the intersection of Calle Reina Victoria and Mariscal Foch in northern Quito, where young people gather before hitting nearby night spots. A noticeable police presence makes it safe to explore the immediate area, but if you plan to party beyond the three-block radius of Calama, Juan León Mera and Pinto Streets, take a taxi. On Fridays, you’ll find live music after 10 p.m. at Q, a restaurant and bar at the base of the NU House boutique hotel (Calles Marsical Foch E6-12 and Reina Victoria; 593-2-255-7840; quitoq.com). Across the plaza, La Boca del Lobo (Calles Calama 284 and Reina Victoria; 593-2-252-7915; labocadellobo.com.ec) has a red lounge and a glassed-in patio with funky chandeliers, hanging bird cages and ceiling tiles featuring religious iconography. It serves a selection of fried appetizers for midnight snacking.
Saturday
3 a.m.
4) AFTER HOURS
Most bars close by 3 a.m. One after-hours option is the Metro Café (Avenida Orellana at the corner of Rábida; 593-2-255-2570), which prepares diner fare around the clock. It’s also a good breakfast option, serving up stacks of pancakes and greasy-spoon dishes like Cheddar scrambled eggs with hash browns and bacon. During the day, families with restless children will appreciate the outdoor playground.
9 a.m.
5) INTO THIN AIR
Take the dizzying Teleférico aerial tram up to the Cruz Loma viewpoint, some 13,000 feet above sea level (Avenidas Occidental and Fulgencio Araujo; 593-2-222-2996). Bring a hat (temperatures drop as you climb to the top) and spring for the express line ($8.50 for tourists, $4.90 for locals). At the top, stroll the nature paths threaded amid waving grasses and buy coca tea ($2.25) at the tea shop in the mountain lodge to help counteract the high altitude.
11:30 a.m.
6) ART AND ARCHITECTURE
La Capilla del Hombre (Calles Lorenzo Chávez EA18-143 and Mariano Calvache; 593-2-244-8492; capilladelhombre.com), which means Chapel of Man, is an impressive cultural complex conceived in 1985 by Oswaldo Guayasamín, one of Ecuador’s greatest artists, as a tribute to the resilience of the Latin American people. The three-story museum, in the Bellavista neighborhood, houses a heart-wrenching sequence of paintings, murals and sculptures that captures the miseries and victories of people struggling against political oppression.
1 p.m.
7) A TASTE OF THE COAST
Settle in for lunch on the leafy patio of La Chillangua Verde Esmeralda (Calles Zaldumbie N25-165 and Toledo; 593-2-222-5313), which specializes in coastal Ecuadorean cuisine, including tasty ceviches (from $6 for a small calamari to $16 for a large langosta) and camarones encocadas, a rich seafood dish prepared with coconut juice.
3 p.m.
8) FOLKLORE AND FORAGING
Folklore Olga Fisch (Avenidas Colón E10-53 and Caamaño; 593-2-254-1315; olgafisch.com) is a boutique with a selection of indigenous and Ecuadorean art, including handwoven tapestries, silver jewelry, straw fedoras and pottery. It’s a must-stop for shoppers. The small museum upstairs displays pre-Columbian artifacts and post-colonial art. Next, hone your haggling skills at El Ejido park, a short taxi ride away, where artisans in indigenous garb line the northern end on most weekends with stalls featuring handmade jewelry, alpaca scarves, wooden flutes and other crafts. Nearby, the Mercado Artesanal La Mariscal (Calles Jorge Washington between Reina Victoria and Juan León Mera) has about another hundred stalls of similar souvenirs.
8 p.m.
9) ABOVE THE CLOUDS
Hold tight for a bumpy ride up the potholed gravel road to Hacienda Rumiloma (at the end of Obispo de la Madrid; 593-2-320-0953; haciendarumiloma.com), more than 10,000 feet up the slopes of the Pichincha Volcano, literally above the clouds. The jarring ride is well worth it for a romantic dinner overlooking the city. Outfitted in a hodgepodge of Baccarat chandeliers, booths made of thick slabs of worn wood and antique chairs covered in woven fabrics, the restaurant offers a luxurious, rustic feel, with a wood-burning stove in one corner and a baby grand piano in another. Specialties like the Asian-influenced camarones Rumiloma ($20) and cordero La Cantera, a savory lamb dish ($22), are served on heavy metal platters. Head downstairs to the Irish Pub for an after-dinner drink next to the fireplace. (There are also luxurious suites with fireplaces from $305.)
Sunday
10 a.m.
10) SWISS BREAKFAST
Grab a pastry at the Swiss Corner’s deli/bakery (at the corner of Avenida De los Shyris N38-41 and El Telégrafo; 592-2-280-5360) or sit down in its cheery restaurant next door for yogurt and fruit parfaits or eggs and hash browns. Prices from $3 to $10.
11 a.m.
11) OLD TOWN
The cobblestone streets of Quito’s historic center are closed to traffic from 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. on Sunday — an ideal opportunity to explore. Start at the Basílica del Voto Nacional, (Calle Carchi 122 and Venezuela; 593-2-228-9428), Ecuador’s largest Gothic cathedral, adorned with gargoyles inspired by the country’s iguanas, pumas and Galápagos tortoises. Then take Calle García Moreno to the Plaza de la Independencia, Quito’s main square, surrounded by the cathedral, the Presidential Palace, the Archbishop’s Place and City Hall. Take a break at the Plaza Grande Hotel’s Café (Calles García Moreno and Chile; 888-790-5264; plazagrandequito.com) and order a creamy cup of Ecuadorean hot chocolate ($5). Continuing on Calle García Moreno, you will pass La Compañía de Jesús, with its gold-leaf altar. Entrance: $2. On Calle Sucre, head uphill to the Plaza San Francisco, dominated by a church and convent, where musicians gather and locals spontaneously break into dance. Next, make your way to the pedestrian street La Ronda (also known as Calle Morales), where balconies are decorated with flowers and flags, children play hopscotch and tiny restaurants serve up Ecuadorean specialties.
IF YOU GO
Taxis (typically $2 to $6) are recommended for getting around, especially at night. Or rent an air-conditioned mini-van with a driver, about $130 for a 14-hour day from JL Turismo, jlturismoecuador.com.
In Old Town, Hotel Patio Andaluz (García Moreno N6-52 between Mejía and Olmedo; 593-2-228-0830; hotelpatioandaluz.com) has 32 elegant rooms with antique-style furniture. Rates from $200 a night.
Casa Gangotena, a historic mansion overlooking Plaza San Francisco in Old Town Quito (Calle Bolivar 541; casagangotena.com) plans to offer 33 rooms with painted tin ceilings, antique furniture and marble bathrooms beginning this month. Rooms will start at $425, with breakfast. There will be eight rooms with plaza views for $550 a night.
By MICHELLE HIGGINS
Copyright by The New York Times, 2011
Published: September 15, 2011
NESTLED amid snowcapped Andean peaks, Ecuador’s capital has long been overlooked by travelers on their way to the country’s most famous destination, the Galápagos Islands. But visitors who bypass this lively historic city of some two million people are missing out. At 9,350 feet above sea level, on the eastern slopes of the Pichincha Volcano, Quito offers breathtaking vistas around nearly every corner. Its historic center, a Unesco World Heritage site, is one of the largest in South America, with 40 colonial churches and chapels, 16 convents and monasteries and picturesque plazas. In recent years, museums have been opened; mansions restored; hotels, restaurants and cafes opened and safety improved. And this year, in recognition of Quito’s rich mix of architectural heritage and cultural traditions, the International Cultural Capitals Bureau chose the city as its 2011 American Capital of Culture.
Friday
5:30 p.m.
1) SUNSET OVER THE CITY
Parque Itchimbía (Calles José María Aguirre N4-108 and Concepción; 593-2-322-8470) offers panoramic views, including Quito’s historic center and, in the distance, the winged Virgin of Quito statue. Check out the Art Nouveau Itchimbía Cultural Center (Itchimbía Centro Cultural, 593-2-258-4362; centrocultural-quito.com). The glass and steel structure imported from Hamburg in 1889 was on the other side of the city until it was moved to Itchimbía hill in 2004. Then, venture below the observation deck, where you’ll find Pim’s, an Ecuadorean chain. Order a cocktail and find a seat near one of the heat lamps on the outdoor deck to watch the lights come on in the city below.
7:30 p.m.
2) WITH A LATIN TWIST
Theatrum Restaurant & Wine Bar (Teatro Nacional Sucre, Calle Manabi between Guayaquil and Flores; 593-2-257-1011; theatrum.com.ec), on the second floor of the National Theater, serves Mediterranean cuisine with a Latin twist in a high-vaulted room draped in red velvet curtains. The five-course tasting menu ($38 plus tax; the official currency in Ecuador is the United States dollar) includes specials like grilled octopus with olives and fava beans, crab ravioli and rabbit risotto, and a refreshing sorbet as a palate cleanser. The restaurant will also arrange free transportation to and from your hotel.
10 p.m.
3) PARTY PLAZA
If the food and altitude haven’t sapped your energy, head to Plaza Foch at the intersection of Calle Reina Victoria and Mariscal Foch in northern Quito, where young people gather before hitting nearby night spots. A noticeable police presence makes it safe to explore the immediate area, but if you plan to party beyond the three-block radius of Calama, Juan León Mera and Pinto Streets, take a taxi. On Fridays, you’ll find live music after 10 p.m. at Q, a restaurant and bar at the base of the NU House boutique hotel (Calles Marsical Foch E6-12 and Reina Victoria; 593-2-255-7840; quitoq.com). Across the plaza, La Boca del Lobo (Calles Calama 284 and Reina Victoria; 593-2-252-7915; labocadellobo.com.ec) has a red lounge and a glassed-in patio with funky chandeliers, hanging bird cages and ceiling tiles featuring religious iconography. It serves a selection of fried appetizers for midnight snacking.
Saturday
3 a.m.
4) AFTER HOURS
Most bars close by 3 a.m. One after-hours option is the Metro Café (Avenida Orellana at the corner of Rábida; 593-2-255-2570), which prepares diner fare around the clock. It’s also a good breakfast option, serving up stacks of pancakes and greasy-spoon dishes like Cheddar scrambled eggs with hash browns and bacon. During the day, families with restless children will appreciate the outdoor playground.
9 a.m.
5) INTO THIN AIR
Take the dizzying Teleférico aerial tram up to the Cruz Loma viewpoint, some 13,000 feet above sea level (Avenidas Occidental and Fulgencio Araujo; 593-2-222-2996). Bring a hat (temperatures drop as you climb to the top) and spring for the express line ($8.50 for tourists, $4.90 for locals). At the top, stroll the nature paths threaded amid waving grasses and buy coca tea ($2.25) at the tea shop in the mountain lodge to help counteract the high altitude.
11:30 a.m.
6) ART AND ARCHITECTURE
La Capilla del Hombre (Calles Lorenzo Chávez EA18-143 and Mariano Calvache; 593-2-244-8492; capilladelhombre.com), which means Chapel of Man, is an impressive cultural complex conceived in 1985 by Oswaldo Guayasamín, one of Ecuador’s greatest artists, as a tribute to the resilience of the Latin American people. The three-story museum, in the Bellavista neighborhood, houses a heart-wrenching sequence of paintings, murals and sculptures that captures the miseries and victories of people struggling against political oppression.
1 p.m.
7) A TASTE OF THE COAST
Settle in for lunch on the leafy patio of La Chillangua Verde Esmeralda (Calles Zaldumbie N25-165 and Toledo; 593-2-222-5313), which specializes in coastal Ecuadorean cuisine, including tasty ceviches (from $6 for a small calamari to $16 for a large langosta) and camarones encocadas, a rich seafood dish prepared with coconut juice.
3 p.m.
8) FOLKLORE AND FORAGING
Folklore Olga Fisch (Avenidas Colón E10-53 and Caamaño; 593-2-254-1315; olgafisch.com) is a boutique with a selection of indigenous and Ecuadorean art, including handwoven tapestries, silver jewelry, straw fedoras and pottery. It’s a must-stop for shoppers. The small museum upstairs displays pre-Columbian artifacts and post-colonial art. Next, hone your haggling skills at El Ejido park, a short taxi ride away, where artisans in indigenous garb line the northern end on most weekends with stalls featuring handmade jewelry, alpaca scarves, wooden flutes and other crafts. Nearby, the Mercado Artesanal La Mariscal (Calles Jorge Washington between Reina Victoria and Juan León Mera) has about another hundred stalls of similar souvenirs.
8 p.m.
9) ABOVE THE CLOUDS
Hold tight for a bumpy ride up the potholed gravel road to Hacienda Rumiloma (at the end of Obispo de la Madrid; 593-2-320-0953; haciendarumiloma.com), more than 10,000 feet up the slopes of the Pichincha Volcano, literally above the clouds. The jarring ride is well worth it for a romantic dinner overlooking the city. Outfitted in a hodgepodge of Baccarat chandeliers, booths made of thick slabs of worn wood and antique chairs covered in woven fabrics, the restaurant offers a luxurious, rustic feel, with a wood-burning stove in one corner and a baby grand piano in another. Specialties like the Asian-influenced camarones Rumiloma ($20) and cordero La Cantera, a savory lamb dish ($22), are served on heavy metal platters. Head downstairs to the Irish Pub for an after-dinner drink next to the fireplace. (There are also luxurious suites with fireplaces from $305.)
Sunday
10 a.m.
10) SWISS BREAKFAST
Grab a pastry at the Swiss Corner’s deli/bakery (at the corner of Avenida De los Shyris N38-41 and El Telégrafo; 592-2-280-5360) or sit down in its cheery restaurant next door for yogurt and fruit parfaits or eggs and hash browns. Prices from $3 to $10.
11 a.m.
11) OLD TOWN
The cobblestone streets of Quito’s historic center are closed to traffic from 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. on Sunday — an ideal opportunity to explore. Start at the Basílica del Voto Nacional, (Calle Carchi 122 and Venezuela; 593-2-228-9428), Ecuador’s largest Gothic cathedral, adorned with gargoyles inspired by the country’s iguanas, pumas and Galápagos tortoises. Then take Calle García Moreno to the Plaza de la Independencia, Quito’s main square, surrounded by the cathedral, the Presidential Palace, the Archbishop’s Place and City Hall. Take a break at the Plaza Grande Hotel’s Café (Calles García Moreno and Chile; 888-790-5264; plazagrandequito.com) and order a creamy cup of Ecuadorean hot chocolate ($5). Continuing on Calle García Moreno, you will pass La Compañía de Jesús, with its gold-leaf altar. Entrance: $2. On Calle Sucre, head uphill to the Plaza San Francisco, dominated by a church and convent, where musicians gather and locals spontaneously break into dance. Next, make your way to the pedestrian street La Ronda (also known as Calle Morales), where balconies are decorated with flowers and flags, children play hopscotch and tiny restaurants serve up Ecuadorean specialties.
IF YOU GO
Taxis (typically $2 to $6) are recommended for getting around, especially at night. Or rent an air-conditioned mini-van with a driver, about $130 for a 14-hour day from JL Turismo, jlturismoecuador.com.
In Old Town, Hotel Patio Andaluz (García Moreno N6-52 between Mejía and Olmedo; 593-2-228-0830; hotelpatioandaluz.com) has 32 elegant rooms with antique-style furniture. Rates from $200 a night.
Casa Gangotena, a historic mansion overlooking Plaza San Francisco in Old Town Quito (Calle Bolivar 541; casagangotena.com) plans to offer 33 rooms with painted tin ceilings, antique furniture and marble bathrooms beginning this month. Rooms will start at $425, with breakfast. There will be eight rooms with plaza views for $550 a night.
Saturday, September 10, 2011
36 Hours in Bern, Switzerland
36 Hours in Bern, Switzerland
By TIM NEVILLE
Published: September 8, 2011.
Copyright by The New York Times, 2011
http://travel.nytimes.com/2011/09/11/travel/36-hours-in-bern-switzerland.html?nl=todaysheadlines&emc=tha210
ASK a Swiss to describe Bern and you may hear a joke about how the people move so slowly that even their souls take centuries to reach heaven. While it is true that this city of about 130,000 people in western Switzerland must be counted among the most relaxed of Europe’s capitals, Bern is also one of the most beautiful, a pocket-size Prague of arcades and whimsical fountains, all framed by leafy hills and the glacial-green currents of the Aare River. The urban and rural mingle closely here. Forests of ash and oak push up against a clutch of embassies off a city square. You can dance till dawn or rise early and take a walk under the gaze of the Alps and be back in time for lunch. Why rush through that?
Friday
5 p.m.
1) MOUNTAIN VIEWS
The terrace bar of the Bellevue Palace (Kochergasse 3-5; 41-31-320-45-45; bellevue-palace.ch), a luxurious Art Nouveau hotel whose guests have included Nelson Mandela and Winston Churchill, offers sweeping views of the Alps to the south, and is one of the few places in the city that sells stiff cocktails. Try the Fancy Hendrick’s with cucumber syrup and lemon juice (18 Swiss francs, or $22 at $1.20 to the Swiss franc) or a tumbler of Swiss Highland single malt (54 francs), aged in an ice cave on the Jungfrau, a 13,000-foot mountain you can see from the deck.
7 p.m.
2) ABOVE THE RIVER
Few restaurants can offer riverside dining like the Schwellenmätteli (Dalmaziquai 11; 41-31-350-50-01; schwellenmaetteli.ch), where swift currents course beneath a deck cantilevered over the Aare. The terrace menu tips toward Mediterranean with dishes like tilapia and polenta (24.50 Swiss francs); go inside for Italian cuisine like tagliatelle with scallops and saffron (26.50 francs). For dessert, walk up the hill to Restaurant Luce (Zeughausgasse 28; 41-31-310-99-99), where the portions of creamy rich tiramisù are big enough for two (9.50 francs).
11 p.m.
3) NO YODELING
In 1987 anarchists and leftist groups commandeered a defunct horse-riding school near the main train station. Since then the Reitschule, a graffiti-covered complex, has evolved into one of Bern’s most colorful performance and entertainment centers. On Friday nights white-collar professionals sit next to purple-haired punks over bottles of Einsiedler beer inside the Sous le Pont restaurant, while bands from all over the world rock late into the night in the Dachstock venue upstairs. In the heart of the compound you’ll find the Frauenraum, one of the city’s few lesbian-centric hangouts (Neubrückstrasse 8; 41-31-306-69-69; www.reitschule.ch).
Saturday
9 a.m.
4) MARKET MEAL
Every Saturday and Tuesday morning, artisan butchers and cheesemakers converge on Parliament Square (Bundeshausplatz in German) to sell smoked meats, cheese and pastries. For breakfast, head to the northwest corner of Parliament Square and look across the street, Schauplatzgasse, where you’ll see Bernese lined up for bulbous loaves of zopf, a traditional bread, and warm raisin pastries called schnägge, or snails, named for their spiral shape (2 to 6 Swiss francs). Grab a coffee (4.20 francs) from the Beck Glatz Confiseur a few blocks east at Marktgass-Passage 1 (41-31-300-20-24: mandelbaerli.ch) and fuel up for the walk ahead.
10 a.m.
5) CITY STROLL
At more than 800 years old, Bern has had plenty of time to develop architectural quirks that most visitors never notice. Don’t be one of them. Head to the Bern Tourism Office in the main railway station (Bahnhofplatz 10a; 41-31-328-12-12; berninfo.com) and rent an iPod (18 francs for six hours) preloaded with a multimedia guide (complete with local music and photos) that complements a self-guided walking tour of the oldest parts of the city. You’ll wander by a section of the former city wall and see the house at Mattenenge 2 that bears a cannonball mark made by Bernese rebels who fired on the city during an uprising in 1802.
12 p.m.
6) OF BEARS AND BREWS
Visit BärenPark, a 64,500-square-foot grassy enclosure that houses the city’s mascots, brown bears named Björk and Finn (free, Grosser Muristalden 6; 41-31-357-15-15; baerenpark-bern.ch). The Altes Tram Depot (Grosser Muristalden 6; 41-31-368-14-15; altestramdepot.ch) next to the park brews the best Hefeweizen in town (7.20 Swiss francs, half-liter) and serves a decent bacon and onion spaetzle (19 francs). Climb the steep cobblestone path across the street, Alter Aargauerstalden, for views of the city from the Rosengarten (Alter Aargauerstalden 31b; 41-31-331-32-06; rosengarten.be), a park with 220 types of roses and a restaurant that serves a fine lunch. Items like the pork saltimbocca and saffron risotto cost less than 20 francs.
2 p.m.
7) UNDERCOVER
With more than 3.5 miles of arcades, Bern offers some of the longest covered-shopping promenades in Europe. Madeleine Lüthi stocks her shop, Glanz & Gloria (Brunngasse 48; 41-31-311-19-50), with vintage women’s clothing. The Tschirren family has been making chocolate in Bern since 1919, and you can taste their Champagne truffles and pralines at their shop, Confiserie Tschirren, on Kramgasse 73 (41-31-812-21-22; www.swiss-chocolate.ch). Heimatwerk (Kramgasse 61; 41-31-311-30-00; heimatwerk.ch) carries 140-franc fondue pots, edelweiss neckties and Mondaine clocks designed to look like those used at Swiss train stations.
4 p.m.
8) SNACK TIME
So many Swiss Germans stop what they’re doing at 4 p.m. for a snack break that the tradition even has a name: z’vieri, not to be confused with z’nüni, the 9 a.m. version. Swing by Adriano’s (Theaterplatz 2; 41-31-318-88-31; adrianos.ch), a lively cafe where hip baristas pull espresso shots through ground beans roasted no more than 72 hours ago. The Meh-he-he sandwich (bûche de chèvre cheese with dried figs, arugula and acacia honey on whole-grain bread, 12.50 Swiss francs) is a fine way to ruin your dinner.
7 p.m.
9) MELTING CHEESE
No self-respecting Swiss would eat a meal of melted cheese before winter, but fall is a good time for tourists to get away with it. Le Mazot (Bärenplatz 5; 41-31-311-70-88; mazot-bern.ch) remains popular for its numerous fondues (about 25 Swiss francs a person), but if you’re willing to trade the cozy wood-wall ambience for a more modern one, head to Lötschberg (Zeughausgasse 16; 41-31-311-34-55; loetschberg-aoc.ch), where the fondues (about 25 francs a person) are more traditional — true Gruyère-vacherin mixes with garlic and fendant, a Swiss white wine. Call ahead to reserve a table in a gondola car parked outside.
9 p.m.
10) JAZZ TIME
While Montreux, on Lake Geneva, might host the most well-known jazz festival, Bern is home to a jazz school, its own festival and Mahogany Hall, a club started in 1968 on the riverbank where Swiss musicians like Philipp Fankhauser and Stephan Eicher once played. Next to the BärenPark (Klösterlistutz 18; 41-31-328-52-00; mahogany.ch), Mahogany Hall today has room for 180 people, and the music ranges from Dixie jazz to funk and soul. The fall concert series kicks off in mid-September with the first Saturday night show going to 007 Only, a Swiss band (scenes from the 1969 James Bond movie “On Her Majesty’s Secret Service” were filmed in the Bernese Oberland). Tickets typically cost 25 Swiss francs.
Sunday
10 a.m.
11) BERN ROLLS
Sundays are slow in Bern, with most shops closed: a good day for a bike ride. Three rental stations offer free bikes for up to four hours; each additional hour costs 1 Swiss franc. The main pickup point, located on Milchgässli, on the southwest corner of Bern’s main train station (41-79-277-28-57 on-call service; bernrollt.ch), also rents electric bikes at no cost for the first two hours (1 franc for each additional hour).
10:30 a.m.
12) EGGS AND RUINS
The Marzilibrücke (Gasstrasse 8; 41-31-311-27-80; taberna.ch), in Bern’s riverside Marzili neighborhood, offers a brunch buffet that includes grilled tomatoes, pancakes and jams (31 Swiss francs), starting at 10 a.m. For bicyclists, the Zehendermätteli (Reichenbachstrasse 161; 41-31-301-54-47; zehendermaetteli.ch), a working farm and restaurant on the far north side of town, is about three and a half miles from Bern’s main station. To get there, the route goes through the woodsy Enge peninsula, where Roman roads lead past the ruins of an ancient bath, and to a drift ferry that shuttles hikers across the Aare. The Zehendermätteli’s cheese selection is enormous and comes accompanied with the brunch trimmings you’d expect (35 francs).
IF YOU GO
After a two-year renovation, the opulent Hotel Schweizerhof (Bahnhofplatz 11; 41-31-326-80-80; schweizerhof-bern.ch) opened its grand doors in April. The 99-room hotel has a 150-year history of welcoming guests like Grace Kelly and Albert Schweitzer. Rooms, often appointed with chandeliers, start at 450 Swiss francs.
The Hotel Landhaus (Altenbergstrasse 4-6; 41-31-331-41-66; landhausbern.ch) on the eastern tip of the old city, offers basic but comfortable rooms at some of the more affordable rates in town. Double rooms with private baths start at 160 Swiss francs.
By TIM NEVILLE
Published: September 8, 2011.
Copyright by The New York Times, 2011
http://travel.nytimes.com/2011/09/11/travel/36-hours-in-bern-switzerland.html?nl=todaysheadlines&emc=tha210
ASK a Swiss to describe Bern and you may hear a joke about how the people move so slowly that even their souls take centuries to reach heaven. While it is true that this city of about 130,000 people in western Switzerland must be counted among the most relaxed of Europe’s capitals, Bern is also one of the most beautiful, a pocket-size Prague of arcades and whimsical fountains, all framed by leafy hills and the glacial-green currents of the Aare River. The urban and rural mingle closely here. Forests of ash and oak push up against a clutch of embassies off a city square. You can dance till dawn or rise early and take a walk under the gaze of the Alps and be back in time for lunch. Why rush through that?
Friday
5 p.m.
1) MOUNTAIN VIEWS
The terrace bar of the Bellevue Palace (Kochergasse 3-5; 41-31-320-45-45; bellevue-palace.ch), a luxurious Art Nouveau hotel whose guests have included Nelson Mandela and Winston Churchill, offers sweeping views of the Alps to the south, and is one of the few places in the city that sells stiff cocktails. Try the Fancy Hendrick’s with cucumber syrup and lemon juice (18 Swiss francs, or $22 at $1.20 to the Swiss franc) or a tumbler of Swiss Highland single malt (54 francs), aged in an ice cave on the Jungfrau, a 13,000-foot mountain you can see from the deck.
7 p.m.
2) ABOVE THE RIVER
Few restaurants can offer riverside dining like the Schwellenmätteli (Dalmaziquai 11; 41-31-350-50-01; schwellenmaetteli.ch), where swift currents course beneath a deck cantilevered over the Aare. The terrace menu tips toward Mediterranean with dishes like tilapia and polenta (24.50 Swiss francs); go inside for Italian cuisine like tagliatelle with scallops and saffron (26.50 francs). For dessert, walk up the hill to Restaurant Luce (Zeughausgasse 28; 41-31-310-99-99), where the portions of creamy rich tiramisù are big enough for two (9.50 francs).
11 p.m.
3) NO YODELING
In 1987 anarchists and leftist groups commandeered a defunct horse-riding school near the main train station. Since then the Reitschule, a graffiti-covered complex, has evolved into one of Bern’s most colorful performance and entertainment centers. On Friday nights white-collar professionals sit next to purple-haired punks over bottles of Einsiedler beer inside the Sous le Pont restaurant, while bands from all over the world rock late into the night in the Dachstock venue upstairs. In the heart of the compound you’ll find the Frauenraum, one of the city’s few lesbian-centric hangouts (Neubrückstrasse 8; 41-31-306-69-69; www.reitschule.ch).
Saturday
9 a.m.
4) MARKET MEAL
Every Saturday and Tuesday morning, artisan butchers and cheesemakers converge on Parliament Square (Bundeshausplatz in German) to sell smoked meats, cheese and pastries. For breakfast, head to the northwest corner of Parliament Square and look across the street, Schauplatzgasse, where you’ll see Bernese lined up for bulbous loaves of zopf, a traditional bread, and warm raisin pastries called schnägge, or snails, named for their spiral shape (2 to 6 Swiss francs). Grab a coffee (4.20 francs) from the Beck Glatz Confiseur a few blocks east at Marktgass-Passage 1 (41-31-300-20-24: mandelbaerli.ch) and fuel up for the walk ahead.
10 a.m.
5) CITY STROLL
At more than 800 years old, Bern has had plenty of time to develop architectural quirks that most visitors never notice. Don’t be one of them. Head to the Bern Tourism Office in the main railway station (Bahnhofplatz 10a; 41-31-328-12-12; berninfo.com) and rent an iPod (18 francs for six hours) preloaded with a multimedia guide (complete with local music and photos) that complements a self-guided walking tour of the oldest parts of the city. You’ll wander by a section of the former city wall and see the house at Mattenenge 2 that bears a cannonball mark made by Bernese rebels who fired on the city during an uprising in 1802.
12 p.m.
6) OF BEARS AND BREWS
Visit BärenPark, a 64,500-square-foot grassy enclosure that houses the city’s mascots, brown bears named Björk and Finn (free, Grosser Muristalden 6; 41-31-357-15-15; baerenpark-bern.ch). The Altes Tram Depot (Grosser Muristalden 6; 41-31-368-14-15; altestramdepot.ch) next to the park brews the best Hefeweizen in town (7.20 Swiss francs, half-liter) and serves a decent bacon and onion spaetzle (19 francs). Climb the steep cobblestone path across the street, Alter Aargauerstalden, for views of the city from the Rosengarten (Alter Aargauerstalden 31b; 41-31-331-32-06; rosengarten.be), a park with 220 types of roses and a restaurant that serves a fine lunch. Items like the pork saltimbocca and saffron risotto cost less than 20 francs.
2 p.m.
7) UNDERCOVER
With more than 3.5 miles of arcades, Bern offers some of the longest covered-shopping promenades in Europe. Madeleine Lüthi stocks her shop, Glanz & Gloria (Brunngasse 48; 41-31-311-19-50), with vintage women’s clothing. The Tschirren family has been making chocolate in Bern since 1919, and you can taste their Champagne truffles and pralines at their shop, Confiserie Tschirren, on Kramgasse 73 (41-31-812-21-22; www.swiss-chocolate.ch). Heimatwerk (Kramgasse 61; 41-31-311-30-00; heimatwerk.ch) carries 140-franc fondue pots, edelweiss neckties and Mondaine clocks designed to look like those used at Swiss train stations.
4 p.m.
8) SNACK TIME
So many Swiss Germans stop what they’re doing at 4 p.m. for a snack break that the tradition even has a name: z’vieri, not to be confused with z’nüni, the 9 a.m. version. Swing by Adriano’s (Theaterplatz 2; 41-31-318-88-31; adrianos.ch), a lively cafe where hip baristas pull espresso shots through ground beans roasted no more than 72 hours ago. The Meh-he-he sandwich (bûche de chèvre cheese with dried figs, arugula and acacia honey on whole-grain bread, 12.50 Swiss francs) is a fine way to ruin your dinner.
7 p.m.
9) MELTING CHEESE
No self-respecting Swiss would eat a meal of melted cheese before winter, but fall is a good time for tourists to get away with it. Le Mazot (Bärenplatz 5; 41-31-311-70-88; mazot-bern.ch) remains popular for its numerous fondues (about 25 Swiss francs a person), but if you’re willing to trade the cozy wood-wall ambience for a more modern one, head to Lötschberg (Zeughausgasse 16; 41-31-311-34-55; loetschberg-aoc.ch), where the fondues (about 25 francs a person) are more traditional — true Gruyère-vacherin mixes with garlic and fendant, a Swiss white wine. Call ahead to reserve a table in a gondola car parked outside.
9 p.m.
10) JAZZ TIME
While Montreux, on Lake Geneva, might host the most well-known jazz festival, Bern is home to a jazz school, its own festival and Mahogany Hall, a club started in 1968 on the riverbank where Swiss musicians like Philipp Fankhauser and Stephan Eicher once played. Next to the BärenPark (Klösterlistutz 18; 41-31-328-52-00; mahogany.ch), Mahogany Hall today has room for 180 people, and the music ranges from Dixie jazz to funk and soul. The fall concert series kicks off in mid-September with the first Saturday night show going to 007 Only, a Swiss band (scenes from the 1969 James Bond movie “On Her Majesty’s Secret Service” were filmed in the Bernese Oberland). Tickets typically cost 25 Swiss francs.
Sunday
10 a.m.
11) BERN ROLLS
Sundays are slow in Bern, with most shops closed: a good day for a bike ride. Three rental stations offer free bikes for up to four hours; each additional hour costs 1 Swiss franc. The main pickup point, located on Milchgässli, on the southwest corner of Bern’s main train station (41-79-277-28-57 on-call service; bernrollt.ch), also rents electric bikes at no cost for the first two hours (1 franc for each additional hour).
10:30 a.m.
12) EGGS AND RUINS
The Marzilibrücke (Gasstrasse 8; 41-31-311-27-80; taberna.ch), in Bern’s riverside Marzili neighborhood, offers a brunch buffet that includes grilled tomatoes, pancakes and jams (31 Swiss francs), starting at 10 a.m. For bicyclists, the Zehendermätteli (Reichenbachstrasse 161; 41-31-301-54-47; zehendermaetteli.ch), a working farm and restaurant on the far north side of town, is about three and a half miles from Bern’s main station. To get there, the route goes through the woodsy Enge peninsula, where Roman roads lead past the ruins of an ancient bath, and to a drift ferry that shuttles hikers across the Aare. The Zehendermätteli’s cheese selection is enormous and comes accompanied with the brunch trimmings you’d expect (35 francs).
IF YOU GO
After a two-year renovation, the opulent Hotel Schweizerhof (Bahnhofplatz 11; 41-31-326-80-80; schweizerhof-bern.ch) opened its grand doors in April. The 99-room hotel has a 150-year history of welcoming guests like Grace Kelly and Albert Schweitzer. Rooms, often appointed with chandeliers, start at 450 Swiss francs.
The Hotel Landhaus (Altenbergstrasse 4-6; 41-31-331-41-66; landhausbern.ch) on the eastern tip of the old city, offers basic but comfortable rooms at some of the more affordable rates in town. Double rooms with private baths start at 160 Swiss francs.
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