36 Hours in St. Martin/St. Maarten

36 Hours in St. Martin/St. Maarten
By JEREMY W. PETERS
Copyright by The New York Times
Published: November 4, 2010
http://travel.nytimes.com/2010/11/07/travel/07st-martin-36hours.html?nl=todaysheadlines&emc=tha29


AMONG the accolades awarded to Caribbean islands (most beautiful beach, easiest on the budget, most relaxing), the award for most densely developed probably goes to St. Martin/St. Maarten — the half-Dutch, half-French island in the West Indies. That is not to say the island’s natural beauty is ruined. It remains a stunningly picturesque place with some of the Caribbean’s most arresting scenery (here it could win a prize, too). But all that development — boutique hotels, casinos, marinas, high-rise resorts — means visitors are never short on options. And thanks to a seemingly endless construction boom, those options keep multiplying.

A Weekend in St. Martin/St. Maarten


Friday

5 p.m.
1) FOR WINE LOVERS

Conventional wisdom holds that the Dutch side of the island (St. Maarten) operates at a faster pace than the French side (St. Martin). In truth, both are bustling — the main difference being that the Dutch side has more branded full-service resorts, while the French side has more mom-and-pops. For a warm introduction to the island, head to the French town of Grand Case and the bar at the Love Hotel (140 Boulevard de Grand Case; 590-590-29-87-14; love-sxm.com), which sits on stilts over the sand, offering an idyllic perch to watch the sun dip into the sea. Opened last year by a young French couple, the hotel has a stellar wine list (5 euros, or $6.80 at $1.36 to the euro, a glass), and predinner appetizers like a beef carpaccio (11 euros).

8 p.m.
2) ANDES ON THE CARIBBEAN

You’ll have plenty of time to sample the buttery-rich French cuisine. Opt for something a little less conventional at Patagonia (Plaza Puerta del Sol, Simpson Bay Yacht Club; 599-544-3394; www.patagonia-restaurant.com), an Argentine steakhouse that opened this summer on the Dutch side. No Caribbean kitsch here: the atmosphere is modern and sleek, with dark gray slate and stone walls. The tenderloins and rib eyes, grass-fed and flown in from Argentina ($25 to $38), come with your choice of sauce (criolla, chimichurri or malbec), a salad and a side dish.

10 p.m.
3) ROLL THE DICE

Gambling is one of St. Maarten’s biggest draws. And aside from the blare of a yacht horn or the squeak of a tree frog, the synthesized ping of the slot machine might be the island’s most recognizable sound. Near the French border, the Princess Casino at Port de Plaisance (Cole Bay; 599-544-4311; princessportdeplaisance.com) feels removed from the ceaseless drumbeat. In addition to the usual blackjack, poker and roulette tables, the casino is known for its colorful floor shows with dancers in feather headdresses and billowing gowns gliding across the stage.

Saturday

10 a.m.
4) PRIME BEACH

Few experiences are as uniquely St. Martin as a stroll down the beach at Orient Bay, known for its pulsing beach bars at one end and a naturist resort at the other. You’ve been warned: this is a clothing-optional beach. It faces east, so get there early and rent a chair and umbrella from one of the dozen or so bars that line the beach. The going rate for two chairs and an umbrella is about 15 euros, and a couple of drinks are usually part of the deal. Kakao Beach (on Orient Bay; 590-590-87-43-26; kakaobeach.com) has one of the biggest spreads on the water and some of the nicest scenery, offering not only chairs in the sand but also thatch-canopied tables spread out in a small grove of palm trees.

Noon
5) SEAFOOD RIVIERA

The small town of Grand Case, on the French side, is the island’s culinary center. Elegant French bistros line both sides of the main street, which hugs the beach. Talk of the Town Too (Boulevard de Grand Case) won’t win awards for refinement. Its open-air dining area consists of little more than picnic tables, a grill and a chalkboard menu. But there is a satisfying sea breeze, and you can haggle for your meal. Tell the servers what the competition is charging for a grilled lobster, and they might cut you a deal. For about $20, expect a decent-size lobster tail with a couple of homemade sides like rice and beans and corn on the cob. For dessert, just a minute on foot down the street is La Crepe en Rose (Boulevard de Grand Case), a pink-and-white food cart that serves crepes with a variety of flavors, including strawberry and apricot jam and Nutella, for 3 or 3.50 euros.

2 p.m.
6) JUST A LITTLE FARTHER

Some of the island’s natural beauty is hidden behind artificial eyesores. Case in point: the hike through the nature preserve known as the Wilderness on the island’s northernmost tip. To get there, you have to first walk past a landfill. But once you clear the trash-strewn first leg of the trail, you will be rewarded with some of the island’s most sweeping vistas. The trail hugs a steep hill through fields of cactus and then deposits you on a rocky beach. Keep going, and you will shortly reach your reward — the pristine, secluded Petites Cayes beach.

5 p.m.
7) JET BLAST

The signs — they say “Danger” in bright red letters and depict a man getting blown off his feet by a landing jet — could not be clearer. Yet that doesn’t seem to deter people from lining up on the beach at the foot of the runway at Princess Juliana International Airport to jump up as if they could touch the approaching aircraft with their fingertips. This spectacle poses several confounding questions: Don’t they realize they can’t jump high enough to reach the planes? And don’t they realize what would happen to them if they did? Save your dignity and watch from a safe distance at nearby Sunset Beach Bar and Grill (Caravanserai Resort; 599-545-2084; sunsetsxm.com). The rumble from the approaching aircraft will still rattle your table as you savor a bottle of beer ($3) and snack on their pizzas ($11 to $15).

8 p.m.
8) QUAY-SIDE DINING

One of the most ambitious and pricey new developments to land on St. Maarten is the Porto Cupecoy (portocupecoy.com), a marina, condo, retail and restaurant complex built by Orient Express Hotels. Everything is immaculate, like the neatly arranged beach tables with umbrellas, and the carefully manicured landscaping. The same goes for its restaurants. Maximo Cafe (Porto Cupecoy; 599-554-0333), a seafood-heavy French restaurant, is gaining a reputation as one of the island’s top spots. Pastas include tagliatelle with scallops ($22); main courses include a filet of turbot with a riesling sauce ($55).

11 p.m.
9) RED RUM

Bars with traditional Caribbean flair — life preservers on the wall, an umbrella in your drink — are easy enough to find on the island. For something decidedly lacking in tropical flair, head to the Red Piano on the Dutch side (Pelican Resort; 599-544-6008). The piano, along with the walls and tabletops, is, indeed, red. Live bands play many nights, and the action goes well into the early morning hours. Try the guavaberry rum, a local specialty, made from, you guessed it, guavaberry ($8).

Sunday

9 a.m.
10) PAIN ET CHOCOLATE

A decent, and decently priced, breakfast can be hard to come by. But along the waterfront boulevard in Marigot, the capital of the French side, are dueling bakeries that serve up fresh croissants (chocolate and plain), tarts (a variety of assorted fruits like strawberry and pineapple) and éclairs: La Sucrière (Boulevard de France; 590-590-51-13-30) and Sarafina’s (Boulevard de France; 590-590-29-73-69). Five euros is about as pricey as anything gets.

Noon
11) FRENCH DIP

Some beaches are overdeveloped. Some are untouched. For something in the middle, head to Baie Rouge on the island’s French side. The beach is a wide, gradually sloping crescent of pillowy, straw-colored sand. A natural jetty juts out at one end, offering views of the soaring cliffs that bookend the beach. Access is simple. The beach lies right off a main road and there is a parking lot a few steps from the sand, another sign that on the island they build wherever there is suitable land.

IF YOU GO

A rental car is recommended for getting around the island.

The Hotel L’Esplanade (Grand Case; 590-590-87-06-55; lesplanade.com) is a charming boutique hotel on the French side, overlooking downtown Grand Case and the beach. All rooms have private terraces and kitchens, with rates starting at $245 through Dec. 19.

The Love Hotel (140 Boulevard de Grand Case; 590-590-29-87-14; love-sxm.com) is right on the beach in downtown Grand Case. Its seven rooms were recently renovated with dark-wood furniture and bright white walls; from 105 euros ($142).

La Samanna Resort & Spa (Baie Longue; 800-957-6128; lasamanna.com) is the place to be on St. Martin if you want friends to gasp with jealousy. The entry price is high: rooms start at about $495 this month. But this is as full-service as resorts come, and on one of the island’s prettiest stretches of beach.